North Devon heaven
The idea of the ‘perfect wave’ is something every surfer continues to search for… After spending a couple of evenings checking forecasts over the Christmas period, I found a spot in North Devon that was going to be working well - it was time to go on an adventure (scoring some decent waves and taking a few photos). Winter has always been my favourite season to go surfing - empty lineups with a consistent swell... Since the Inland Surf Companies have opened, surfing in itself has become commercialised - wave technology is trying to outdo nature and it’s very much a product of the typical human obsession/desire to control things - ‘playing god’. I’m a big believer in earning your stripes, respecting the ocean and be able to deal with any potential danger out in the surf (something that does worry me about the new generation of surfers that start learning in a wave pool - it’s not the same and never will be).
For me, nothing will ever beat the raw elements of nature - even if it’s just walking on the beach and watching the sunrise…
