Autumnal wonderwalls
Perhaps the prime time of year to head down the coast to chase some waves. ‘Wonderwalls’ is the best way to sum up the Autumn for surfing. The summer crowds have died off and the swell is much more consistent - quite often providing a bit of height and power behind the glassy curtain (clean conditions with empty lineups, there’s nothing better). Having only taken a couple of photos before my surfing session, I often find myself racing around so I can head straight into the ocean with excitement. Having a conversation with a fellow surfer after, we discussed that there's been a noticeable difference on the beaches since the Inland Surf Companies have opened. It seems to be less busy nowadays. However, you just can’t beat the natural environment (you won’t ever catch me in a wave pool)!
It always surprises me how this old GoPro of mine is still going?! It has taken a battering over the past few years - yet it never fails. Taking a few shots perched on the headland after, looking down at the surfers is always a relaxing feeling being surrounded by the beautiful scenery of North Devon...
